Saturday, January 13, 2018

Day 20: In Lyon we find an open air market, French improv, and a Jazz trio




Ancient Roman amphitheater
Saturday 8 July 2017

The luck we had Friday of navigating the city and finding things so easily continued into Saturday. Just up the street from our hostel we explored the ancient Roman ruins of stone amphitheaters. There were several built into the hillside with stone masonry. It was just incredible to me that something so old was still serving the same purpose today.
From the ruins we made our way to the Basilica de Notre Dame which is a cathedral also built into the side of the hill. Its main theme is that it is decorated with huge mosaics on the walls and mosaic tile on the floors as well. There is still stained glass above, but the mosaics outshine the stained glass in my opinion. I just can’t imagine how long it must have taken the artist to piece together all these amazing pieces of art. The chapel was like a basement underneath the Cathedral and it was nice and cool down there. Although not as grand as the top level, it was still pretty impressive. Outside in a gift shop I bought thank you cards because I was sure I’d use them to thank all the people who have helped Mike while I’m gone.
Incredible mosaic work inside the cathedral.
I forgot to mention although our hostel was in a prime location, the facilities were not as nice. Typical of many buildings in France many of the toilets were missing seats, and there wasn’t anything to dry your hands on after you washed them. We also discovered that to use the shower you must press a button, and out sprays a swath of ice cold water for 20 seconds. You must press the button constantly to have continual water, but since it was so cold you’d press it, get wet, lather, wipe off, press it get rinsed and be done. It was so cold every time I pressed the button the water would take the breath right out of me. It wasn’t so bad though, considering it was 100 degrees again with high humidity, a cold shower was refreshing. The breakfast was also a little bit disappointing. When I stayed in the hostel in Paris they had bread, cheese, ham, fruits, yogurt, and cereal. Here they only provided bread and cereal. I was mostly disappointed with the lack of fruits because I feel like I haven’t been eating enough of them and my body is starting to crave fresh fruits.
We wanted to eat at Les Adrets afterwards. Helene recommended the place and told us it was a restaurant for locals, and would have very good, local food. We found it really easily, it was only 5 minutes from the hostel, but they were closed. They are only open on weekdays we found, which is probably why they cater to locals, and are not interested in serving tourists.
We walked around looking for a place to eat, but the other girls wanted to find a cheap lunch, and I wasn’t super hungry anyways, so we tried to find a bistro, but most of the places were nice sit down restaurants. We finally found a place because we were attracted by all the pizza in the window. I got a pizza with eggplant, tomato and basil with a crust that was more like a crescent roll than pizza dough. I also got a cookie topped with half of a fresh apricot that was really good too. There were no seats left in the pizza place, so we ate on the steps of a building around the corner right in front of the river.
Gooseberries "groseille"
Fresh lettuce always looks better in France
When we finished eating we walked across the bridge to the other side of the river and discovered a huge open air market lining the banks of the Rhone. We were so drawn-in, there was no question, and we had to walk through this market. I couldn’t believe how wonderful everything looked, tables with ten different kinds of olives, honey, jam, fresh lettuce leaves, lots of peaches, apricots, gooseberries, pears, bananas, yellow and green zucchini’s, butternut squash, onions, pastry’s, fish, crabs, flowers, cheese galore, and meats, and breads, it was a foodie fantasy. Everything looked so good, and yet we had just ate and we couldn’t buy anything because it wouldn’t keep in the hot weather. I bought a small jar of apricot jam to take home instead, and some macaroons.
Next stop was the 2nd largest mall in Europe. It was actually not as large as I expected, but it did have 5 levels with 4 wings each, so I guess that is really big compared to any other mall I’ve been to, but I think I expected it to be one level and spread out really far, I didn’t expect the multiple levels. The mall was really crowded so it was difficult to shop.
Instead we decided to see a movie. The mall had a movie theatre and we watched Wonder Woman, which is kind of cheating because it’s an American film, but it was dubbed instead of having sub-titles. I was actually impressed with the dubbing, it still looked as if they were saying French words. I mean their mouths kind of matched the words that we were hearing.
Afterwards we took the metro to another quartier of the city and happened upon a comedy improv competition in the park. I’ve never seen its equivalent in English, so I really don’t know what to compare it to. I thought the actors were really good though, just like, you could tell they were putting their whole soul into their performance, like full commitment. It felt more realistic to me than anything I’ve seen in a movie.
When it ended we looked around for a place to eat dinner, but most places were closed. After wandering the nearby streets for a while we ended up back where the improv show had been and spotted a Chinese restaurant. I don’t know what we were thinking, but with so few options we ate there even though all the food was behind a glass display and reheated in a microwave before being handed to us. I got noodles which seemed like a safe choice, but it was the nastiest food I’ve ever eaten. Plastic might have tasted better.
We went to get drinks at Burger King afterwards and I found they have the nicest bathrooms I’ve ever seen in France, no missing toilet seats, towels to dry your hands, the works.
Looks like the side of a buildling right? No, the side of this building is blank, the windows are all painted on. We found these trompe-l'oeil all over Lyon
We continued to walk around the city and later that night we got ice cream. It was the first time I tried Nutella ice cream, well worth the splurge. As we walked the road seemed to get steeper and steeper until I realized the road was actually turning into one enormous staircase that went on blocks and blocks. Another picturesque road that would never exist in the US.
On our way back to the hostel I saw a sign that said live Jazz. We peeked inside and discovered it was a restaurant with a stage, and there really was a jazz trio with bass, piano, and drums. We had to pay to get inside, but got a discount for being under 24 years old. That’s right, I passed for under 24 at 33 years old. It was a great night for my ego. It was well worth it too. I have always loved Jazz music, especially Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong, and when it comes to purely instrumental Jazz, this trio was exactly the kind of Jazz I love.

Trompe-l'oeil
Trompe-l'oeil
Trompe-l'oeil
Trompe-l'oeil
Crossing the bridge on our way home
I ordered my first Orangina in France and sat with the silliest grin on my face I was so happy to be there. I’ve never seen live Jazz and as I sat listening I realized I had finally done everything I’d ever wanted to do in my 20’s. It didn’t matter that I was a few years late, this truly was living my dreams. I didn't have the greatest view, but I couldn't help take some video of their performance

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